Tō-ji

Tō-ji 東寺 in Kyōto holds a number of the most impressive medieval Buddhist statues I have encountered thus far in Japan. Especially the “3D mandala” of statues with Dainichi-nyorai 大日如来 (Skt: वैरोचन Vairocana) at its centre in the Lecture hall (講堂 Kōdo) is impressive.  As it is not allowed to take pictures on the inside of the buildings, this blog entry only features pictures taken from the outside.

The entrance of Tō-ji

 Kannon-bosatsu 観音菩薩 as seen through an opening from outside of the dining hall.

 The Tō-ji’s five story pagoda.

 In or near temples affiliated to the Shingon-shū 真言宗 it is very common to find depictions of Kōbō-daishi 弘法大師 (空海Kūkai), its legendary founder. This particular statuette is enshrined a bronze stupa-like shrine.

 A statue of Jizō-bosatsu 地蔵菩薩 adorned with a red bib and hat.

 A shrine for San-men Daikoku-ten 三面大黒天 (Three-faced Mahākāla). Unfortunately, the shrine was closed at the time of my visit, but usually San-men Daikoku-ten is depicted with his central head resembling that of the regular Daikoku-ten, the left one resembling Benzai-ten 弁財天 and the right one resembling Bishmon-ten 毘沙門天. Visitors are encouraged to recite his mantra: “On ma ka kya ra ya so wa ka”.

 

 The Daishi-dō 大師堂 (the Great Master Hall, the master being Kūkai) dedicated to Fudō-myōō 不動明王. On the left there is an altar to pray for Eastern Japan’s recovery from the 2011 earthquake. 

 

A small statue of a Buddha or bodhisattva (most likely Jizō-bosatsu 地蔵菩薩) on the temple grounds. Apart from his red bib and headwear, the statue was given offerings including a nectar drink, spicy nuts, shrimp-flavoured crisps etc. At his feet, you can see a small singing bowl. If this is in fact Jizō-bosatsu, there is a possibility that these offerings were presented to him by a devotee who has lost a child.

Roadside shrines

All over Japan, small shrines dedicated to a certain Buddha or deity can be found, but in Kyōto they are particularly common. These shrines are not located on the premises of a large Shintō shrine or Buddhist temple and they appear to be maintained by laymen.

The statues of Jizō-bosatsu seen below are enshrined in a construction that protects them from the elements.

Kinkaku-ji

I always get the impression that the religious function of the Kinkaku-ji 金閣寺 is far less important than its touristic function, even compared to other major sacred areas in Kyōto like Kiyomizu-dera 清水寺 and Fushimi Inari-taisha 伏見稲荷来社. However, this does not mean that there are no traces at all of authentic folk religion on the temple grounds.

You can see the Buddha statues shown above along the road behind the Kinkaku-ji. People throw coins at the hole in the ground and the singing bowl. Just for fun? Or perhaps for good luck and protection?

A small temple dedicated to Fudō-myōō 不動明王 on the Kinkaku-ji grounds. According to an inscription the Fudō-myōō statue which is the temple’s main idol, is made by the legendary Kōbō-daishi 弘法大師 (Kūkai 空海).

A Shintō style shrine to the originally South-Asian creature(s?) called Dakini-ten 吒枳尼天 (Skt.: Ḍākinī). In Japan this deity has become closely associated with the native deity Inari 稲荷 since the middle ages .

The remains of the Daimonji-yaki 大文字焼きas seen from just outside of the Kinkaku-ji grounds (Around O-bon お盆, fires shaped like the character 大 (meaning “big”) can be seen in Kyōto).

 

Sources:

* Inscriptions on the premises of the Kinkaku-ji (August, 2012).

Gion

The area called Gion 祇園 in Kyōto has a traditional atmosphere, so one need not look far for shrines and temples.

Here are some pictures of a small temple I entered.

Enmei Jizō-bosatsu 延命地蔵菩薩, to whom one prays for longevity.

Mizuko kuyō Jizō-bosatsu 水子供養地蔵菩薩, he who takes care of children who passed away. Visitors use the laddle to pour some water on the statue before praying.

The glass prevented me from taking a better picture of the temple’s main Idol (which is also Jizō-bosatsu).

A rather large statue of Sen-ju Kannon-bosatsu 千手観音菩薩. Both this statue and the main idols have a mirror in front of them.